EASY  CARE
LANDSCAPE  MANUAL
for MIDDLE TENNESSEE

 

BY

 

The Davidson County Master Gardener Association

Lisa Noell, Program Chairperson

 

 

Jim Johnson, UT Extension Agent/Sponsor

Barbara Sullivan, President

 

 

WORKING WITH

 

Nashville Area Habitat for Humanity

Charles T. Crow, Executive Director

 

 

VISIT OUR WEB SITE:   www.nashville.org/aes/mg

 

INTRODUCTION

 

Faith is to believe what we do not see; and the reward of this faith is to see what we believe.

St. Augustine

 

And so it is with landscaping and gardening.  On faith, we sow the seeds in our garden, and our faith is rewarded by vegetables to nourish us, and flowers and trees that grow for our visual pleasure.

 

Climate

It is important to understand our climate.  The United States is divided into growing zones (based on cold hardiness of a plant). These zones have been modified over the years using horticultural and climatological information.  In Middle Tennessee we are considered the Middle South, zone 6B to be specific.  Not only are we able to grow plants native to the Southeast, but we can also grow plants from the Northeast, Midwest and Pacific Northwest.  Although our winter lows don’t usually drop below zero, sub zero temperatures have been recorded.   We also have long summer growing seasons, so crops like okra and watermelons can be grown.  Choose plants that can withstand possible winter freezes as well as the high heat and low rainfall of the summer.

 

U.S.D.A. Plant Hardiness Zone Map

 

It is important to be aware of our freeze dates especially for vegetable gardening.  Because the freeze dates are different from zone to zone, seed packet instructions will use ranges.  In Nashville, we use April 16 as the last freeze date for spring—there is only a 10% chance of frost after that date, and anticipate that we may have a freeze by October 2 and a 10% chance of frost by October 13.  Anticipate the more conservative dates, because you do not want to loose a crop to frost in the fall or your annuals and veggie seedlings to a frost in spring.

 

 

Nashville Freeze Dates

 

First Freeze	First	10%	50%	90%
	10/2	10/13	10/29	11/11
Last Freeze		90%	50%	10%
		3/24	4/5	4/16

 

Landscape Plans

 

A good landscape plan should include the following:

 

Year round interest. 

Choose trees and shrubbery that are interesting all year long.  An unusual leaf shape or color will call attention to a plant in spring and summer as will flowers, changing leaf color adds interest in fall and some plant species have peeling bark or interesting bark color for additional winter interest.  Perennial grasses, with their flowering plumes, can last long into the winter and provide an interesting silhouette and motion in the landscape.

 

Conserve energy, money and natural resources.

Every plan should include ideas to reduce the amount of time needed to cut the lawn and trim shrubbery.  Use ground covers when convenient, like on slopes.  Be aware of the mature size of the plants you choose.  Plant trees and shrubbery that fit the space, do not plant a bush that grows to 8 foot high if you have a window 4 feet from the ground and do not plant a tree 5 feet from the house if it will grow to 25 feet in diameter. 

Plant deciduous (also known as hardwoods) trees that loose their leaves each fall on the south side of your house, far enough away to grow to a mature size without disturbing power lines or roofs, but near enough to shade the house each summer.  This will make your house cooler and require less air conditioning or fans to make your family comfortable.  Plant evergreens to shield the house from the wind, reducing the need for heat in winter. 

Choose plants that are drought tolerant.  The Nashville area suffers from near drought conditions each summer.  Choose plants that thrive with less water.  Plant suggestions that require less water are included in this manual.  Be a good steward of our water resources.

 

Trees and Shrubs

 

Trees and shrubs are the backbone of any landscape design.  A landscape without trees and shrubs looks lifeless in winter as the perennials die back.  With their leaves, flowers, berries and sometimes brightly colored or peeling bark, trees and shrubs provide visual interest in all seasons.

 

Trees and shrubs are similar in that they can be divided into two main categories.  Evergreens, like pines, cedars and yews, maintain their needle like leaves year round.  Deciduous trees and shrubs, like maples, oaks, and burning bush, loose their leaves after providing a colorful show each fall. 

 

Trees and shrubs come in all shapes and sizes.  To determine what tree or shrub will work best, you must review your planting site and determine what qualities you are looking for.  Are you looking for shade, privacy from your neighbor’s yard, spring flowers or fall colors?  What size is your planting area?  You do not want to put a large tree that can grow to 8o feet tall and very wide in a small space.  Neither you nor the plant would be happy.

 

The difference between a tree and a shrub is not just a matter of height.  Both have sturdy, woody branches that stay alive the entire year, but a shrub produces its branches at, near, or below ground level.  A tree usually has a single trunk with branches starting some distance up the trunk.  However, many large shrubs can be pruned to look like small trees and some trees can be trained to grow like shrubs.

 

Trees and shrubs, more than any other plants, can improve the environment.  Their roots help to aerate and stabilize the soil.  Their branches shield the ground from hard rain, shade it from the heat of the sun, and give protection from the wind.  Their foliage replenishes the air by taking in carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen, and keeps it clean by collecting the soot and grime on their leaf surfaces.

 

Large deciduous trees are excellent choices to plant on the south side of a house where they can cast shade on the wall and windows in the summer.  A well-shaded south wall can reduce the amount of air conditioning needed, conserving energy.  In winter, the leaves will drop, allowing the sun to warm the home.  Trees can also help to conserve energy when used as windbreaks.  Evergreens are generally best for this purpose because they do not loose their needle-like foliage, but even a dense planting of tall, hardy trees planted on the windy side of a house can effectively shield it from the winter wind.

 

Preparing the Planting Area for your Tree or Shrub

1. Dig the soil in the planting area as deep as the root ball of the tree or shrub.
2. Spread 2 to 4 inches of organic matter (well-rotted cow manure, compost, peat moss, or a combination of all three) over the planting area.
3. Blend this all together and then rake to smooth the planting area.

 

Planting the Tree or Shrub

1. Dig the hole the same depth the plant has been planted in its pot, and twice the diameter of the pot. Pile the soil you have dug out of the planting hole next to the planting area.
   
2. Take the tree out of its pot and spread the roots out in the hole.  If the tree or shrub is wrapped in burlap, set the wrapped tree in the hole, then unwrap the burlap from the root ball disturbing the tree roots as little as possible.  You may leave the burlap under the plant and in the hole.  It will disintegrate over time.  You must be sure to remove any string or wire around the base of the tree.
3. Re-fill the hole with the soil you placed next to the planting hole, gently pushing the soil around your tree.  Keep the soil level the same as in the original pot.
4. Mulch around the tree or shrub, keeping an inch or so away from the trunk of the tree or shrub.  Mulching up to the trunk will create a place that insects like.  The mulch will help retain water and discourage weed growth.  
5. Water the tree.  The water will move the soil around and fill any air holes, which can kill your tree.  If you are planting more than one tree in the area, water all the trees after you have completed your plantings, otherwise you could get very muddy.
6. Be familiar with each tree’s mature size and give it room to grow.

 

Care after Planting

 

The most important thing you can do for your newly established trees and shrubs is to water them.  Even though we have suggested drought tolerant plantings, these new plants require one inch of water per week for the first year.  If there is not enough rain during the week, water the trees or shrubs with the garden hose. 

Perennials (Also known as Come-Again Plants)

 

Unlike annuals (pansies, marigolds, petunias) which must be planted each year, perennials will grow for many years.  Although perennials may initially seem to be more expensive than annuals, the perennials do not need replacing each year. By removing the old blooms off of each plant frequently with your pruners you can encourage the plant to rebloom.  Do not be alarmed, many perennials “die back” and disappear each winter, but will sprout up the following spring.  Over a period of several years, you will be spending less money and less time planting your flowers.  Perennials come in all shapes, sizes and colors and provide food for wild life.  A chart following this section will give you an idea as to the tremendous variety of plants that will grow well in Middle Tennessee.

 

Perennials grow and multiply.  Every few years your perennials will require some attention.  They may either outgrow their space or just not bloom as well as in previous years. 

 

Dividing the Perennials

 

An easy way to divide many perennials is:

1.      Dig up the perennial clump out of the ground using either a garden fork or shovel.

2.      Using a hose, wash as much soil away from the plant as possible.

3.      Gently pull sections of the plant apart; a knife may be required for more “woody” roots.

4.      Re-plant a portion of the divided perennial back in the original hole, adding more organic matter (well-rotted cow manure, compost, peat moss, or a combination of all three).  Either plant the divided sections in another prepared area (following the instructions for planting perennials), or “pass along” these extras to a friend or neighbor.

 

 

It is important that the area where you are going to plant your perennials is prepared well for good growth.

 

Preparing the Planting Area

 

4. Dig the soil in the planting area as deep as the blade of your shovel.
5. Spread 2 to 4 inches of organic matter (well-rotted cow manure, compost, peat moss, or a combination of all three) over the planting area.
6. Blend this all together and then rake to smooth the planting area.

 

Planting the Perennials

 

To prepare the planting hole for the perennial: 

7. Dig the hole the same depth the plant has been planted in its pot, and twice the diameter of the pot. Pile the soil you have dug out of the planting hole next to the planting area.
8. Take the perennial out of its pot and spread the roots out in the hole.
9. Re-fill the hole with the soil you placed next to the planting hole, gently pushing the soil around your perennial.  Keep the soil level the same as in the original pot.  
10. Water the plant.  If you are planting more than one perennial, water all the perennials after you have completed your plantings, otherwise you could get very muddy.
11. Give each plant room to grow.
12. Plant three or more of one kind of perennial together for impact.
13. Label the perennials.  This will help you identify newly growing perennials from weeds in the spring.  (You may think you will remember what each plant is, but you won’t.)

 

 

Lawns or Turf Grass

 

Fine fescues, such as chewings, creeping red and hard fescues, and tall fescue are usually the lawns of choice here in Nashville.  Also referred to as cool season turf grasses, these lawns do best when the temperatures are between 60 and 75 degrees and usually look their best in spring and fall.  The optimum planting time for fescue is late August through mid-September or in March.

 

Preparing the Planting bed

 

Lawns can be established by seeding.  The preparation of a fertile and firm planting bed is very important to the growth and performance of young lawn grasses.  For best results:

1. Test soils 4 to 6 weeks before the intended planting date to determine soil phosphorus, potassium and pH levels.  Retest after adding any soil amendments.
2. Control perennial weed grasses and broadleaf weeds.
3. Remove all construction debris (wood, pipe, discarded cement, brush, construction scrap, etc.)
4. Grade property away from the house foundation for at least 15 feet in all direction.
5. Install any below ground drainage tubing before final grading and smoothing.
6. Mix 4 to 6 inches of topsoil with the upper 2 to 4 inches of underlying soil.  Additives, including peat, spent mushroom compost, well rotted sawdust or decomposed manure may be added.
7. Uniformly apply nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and lime according to soil test recommendations.
8. Thoroughly till the soil to a depth of 6 inches or more.  Lime, fertilizer and organic amendments should be very uniformly mixed into the upper 6 to 8 inches of soil.
9. Hand rake the final grade to smooth the soil surface before planting.
10. Broadcast grass seed using a gravity spreader.  Divide the total amount of seed to be planted and seed in two directions across the soil surface.  Lightly rake the soil surface after seeding, covering the seed with 1/8 to   of of soil.

 

Care after Planting

Immediately after planting, water the area frequently to maintain adequate moisture in the upper 1 to 2 inches of soil.  Apply water slowly to prevent seed movement and runoff.  After the lawn grass had become well established and roots are well developed, discontinue the practice of light, daily applications of water.  Apply more water less frequently to increase the root depth.  Begin mowing as soon as the tallest lawn grass plants reach a height of 4 inches.  The desired cut height of your cut lawn is 3 inches, and you do not want to remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade each time you cut the lawn.  Mower blades must be sharp for best mowing quality.  Newly established seedlings may be torn or lifted from the soil by a dull mower blade.

 

Maintaining the Lawn

• Mowing.  For best results, sharpen the mower blade at least once each year, preferably before each mowing season.  Mow when the lawn is dry.  Adjust the lawn mower blade height to mow fescue within the 2   to to 3-inch range.  Remove no more than one-third of the grass blade when mowing.  Scalping lawn grass plants results in a weak and weedy lawn.  Mowing patterns result from back and forth travel while mowing the lawn.  Try to alternate the mowing direction each time the lawn is mowed to distribute wear and to encourage lawn grasses to grow upright.
• Fertilizing the Lawn.  Fescues should be fertilized twice a year.  The best time to fertilize is in spring in either March or April, and in fall, either September or October.  A helpful hint for spring is to fertilize when the forsythia bloom.  This is the time to use a fertilizer that includes a pre-emergent weed killer, which controls dandelions and other weeds.
• Watering the Lawn.  Frequent, light watering often causes poor root development.  This in turn, makes it more difficult for the grass to survive disease and the hot summer.  It is much better to water your lawn deeply—about 1 to 1   inc inches of water per week—so that the grass can develop strong, deep roots. It is better to water in the morning to minimize the amount of water lost to evaporation and discourage fungus and pest problems.  One indicator that the lawn needs water is foot printing.  A lawn grass low in water does not bounce back quickly when walked on.

 

 

 

 

 

Data obtained from Lawngrass Management Quick Reference PB 1578 and the 1999 Tennessee Master Gardener handbook

 

NOTICE:  Trade and brand names are used only for information.  The Extension Service, The University of Tennessee, does not guarantee nor warrant the standard of any product mentioned; neither does it imply approval of any product to the exclusion of others which also may be suitable.  The Agricultural Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national origin, sex or disability and is an Equal Opportunity Employer.

How to Set Up a Square Foot Garden

 

Choose an area and prepare the soil:  Choose a spot in your yard that gets at least 6 hours of sun daily.  Dig a hole 6 inches deep the size of your bed (it is best not to make each bed wider than 4 feet, so that you can reach it from both sides without having to walk on the tilled soil.)  One “4 foot by 4” foot section is adequate for growing supplemental vegetables.  For a family of 4, you may consider either one bed 16 feet by 4 feet, or 2 beds 8 feet by 4 feet.  Keep the soil to put back into the bed.  Mix the soil with peat moss, sand and compost.  Place the mixture back into the hole.  With the added peat most, sand and compost, the soils should now be above ground level.  Take a sample of this soil and have it tested at the Extension Service.  At a cost of  $4.00 for this test, it is very important the first year and every three to four years there after, as they will tell you if you need more fertilizer.

 

Lay out the bed:  Divide the bed into one-foot squares using string, sticks or any other material you have on hand.  This is only necessary the first few times so that you have an idea of the size of one square foot.

 

Planting:  Plant the seeds, bulbs or transplants according to the following diagram and their requirements for space.  Easily grown vegetables include tomatoes, cucumbers, bush or pole beans, radishes, lettuce, onions and mustard or turnip greens.  Peas, beans, tomatoes, cucumbers and squash all work well if they are grown up tomato stakes or bamboo poles.

 

Weeding:  Weeds will sprout from the soil and rob the plants of their nutrients.  The first year, you can pull out the sprouted weeds as soon as they appear.  As the years go by you will see fewer weeds because they don’t get a chance to go to seed.  It is enjoyable to go out early in the morning and spend a few minutes of quiet time pulling the small weeds and watching the plants grow.  Lush green leaves will shade the weeds from the sun keeping them from growing.

 

Pests:  Insect pests show up early for a meal of your plants.  Hand spraying with water using your hose and nozzle or picking them off and putting them into a bucket of soapy water will take care of most pests. 

 

Watering:  A hose sprayer does a nice job of getting water to your plants.  You can also use a bucket of water and a cup.  The garden will need watering every day during the summer unless it rains.

 

Mulching:  Use your untreated grass clippings (do not use clippings if you have used a weed and feed type product) and last year’s tree leaves to cover the bare ground between the plants.  This keeps the weeds down and the moisture from evaporating.  The mulch decomposes and adds humus and nutrients to the soil.  Newspapers also make good mulch.  Lay it out between the rows of your vegetables and cover the newspaper with untreated grass clippings to hold it down. 

 

Replanting:  After harvesting your first crop, work up the one-foot square, add some compost and plant another crop.  Continue this for all the squares and enjoy the harvest.

 

Preparing the Garden for Winter:  Plant a cover crop of turnip greens for the winter months, or cover the bed with the fall leaves and the last of the grass clippings.

Composting

 

Although a container for composting is not necessary, it helps control factors such as moisture and pests and eliminates an unsightly view.  Materials such as untreated wood, wire mesh, concrete blocks, barrels, or garbage cans can be used as compost bins.  The recommended bin size is about 39 inches, by 39 inches by 39 inches.  This size compost bin is large enough to generate heat and still manageable enough to turn.

 

Instructions for building your compost pile are very simple.  The bottom layer should be course material such as sticks or gravel to allow for airflow to reduce odors and drainage.  The middle layer should be brown material followed by a green layer of equal size.  The top layer should be a thin layer of garden soil.  The pile should be turned periodically for proper airflow.  As materials accumulate, they can be added to the pile.  When adding fruit and vegetable scraps, they should be buried into the compost or a thin layer of soil or brown materials should be added to reduce problems with pests.  Materials that should not be used for composting include meats, bones, fish scraps, dairy products, fatty or oily foods and pet wastes.  These materials all attract insects and animals.

 

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